Patternmaking For Underwear Design Kristina Shin Pdf -
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The standout feature of Kristina Shin’s book, Patternmaking for Underwear Design
, is its unique underwire-first drafting method. Unlike traditional methods that adapt a standard bodice sloper into a bra, Shin’s approach begins with the shape of the underwire and builds the pattern around it. This is considered more accurate for lingerie design because it accounts for the significant variation in breast shape even among individuals with the same bodice size. Key Features
"Shin's Method": An innovative flat patternmaking technique that uses two intermediate blocks, enabling novice designers to achieve commercial-quality fit.
Industry Standards: The book reveals common industry drafting methods and practices that were previously exclusive to major lingerie companies.
Comprehensive Coverage: Includes detailed drafting instructions for various garments, including:
Bras: Full band, partial band, sports bras, and various cup seam styles.
Foundation & Lingerie: Corsets, bodysuits, camisoles, and babydolls. patternmaking for underwear design kristina shin pdf
Essentials: Briefs, G-strings, boy shorts, t-shirts, leggings, and pajamas.
Detailed Illustrations: Every drafting step is accompanied by highly detailed technical drawings and illustrations.
Dual Measurement Scales: All measurements and charts are provided in both metric and imperial units.
Grading (2nd Edition): The updated version includes a specific chapter on bra grading, allowing designers to scale patterns up or down from the standard 34B industry base. Best Use Case
This book is widely regarded by reviewers from LilypaDesigns and FehrTrade as a professional-grade technical manual. It focuses strictly on pattern drafting; it does not include instructions for sewing or construction. It is most effective when paired with a construction-focused guide like Norma Loehr’s work. Patternmaking for Underwear Design: Shin PhD, Kristina
Kristina Shin's Patternmaking for Underwear Design is a definitive technical guide for students and professionals looking to master the specialized craft of intimate apparel. The book is highly regarded for its systematic approach to drafting patterns that accommodate the unique 3D contours of the body and the high-stretch properties of modern lingerie fabrics. Key Content & Focus How to draft a basic bra block (full
The book bridges the gap between general patternmaking and the technical nuances required for undergarments. Key areas covered include:
Foundation Blocks: Detailed instructions on drafting the "master patterns" (slopers) for various underwear styles, including briefs, thongs, and boyshorts.
Bra Construction: Deep dives into wire-frame theory, cup shaping (including multi-part cups), and how to achieve support through structural seams rather than just elastic.
Material Science: Guidance on calculating "stretch reduction" factors, ensuring that paper patterns translate correctly to high-lycra or power-net fabrics.
Technical Specifications: Professional industry standards for seam allowances, elastic applications, and grading between sizes. Why It Is Highly Valued
Visual Learning: It uses clear, step-by-step diagrams that make complex geometric transformations (like pivoting darts for a rounded cup) accessible. especially in the cup).
Niche Expertise: Unlike general fashion books, Shin focuses exclusively on the "close-to-skin" fit, addressing common issues like "riding up" or lack of support.
Industry Standards: The methods taught align with commercial manufacturing processes, making it a staple for those wanting to launch their own lingerie brands. Accessibility Note
While many users search for a PDF version of this text, it is a copyrighted professional manual. It is most commonly available as a physical textbook or via authorized digital library platforms.
Shin begins not with paper, but with fabrics. She provides a "stretch factor chart" allowing designers to modify a master pattern based on Lycra content (e.g., 10% spandex vs. 20% spandex). This section is gold for anyone moving from woven to knit design.
Most pattern books stop at paper. Shin includes sewing allowance modifications for picot elastic, fold-over elastic (FOE), and rigid lace insertion. She explains why stretch lace requires a 0.5cm reduction in seam allowance compared to power mesh.